Roving I Recap: Weird in Reykjavik

Maybe it was the jet lag or maybe it's just Iceland, but on a stroll through the streets of Reykjavik on our first night in the country, we found ourselves surrounded by several odd things. 

Like the above image. Do you think it's supposed to be the House of Icelandic Design which includes Food, Art & Music? Or the House of Icelandic which includes Design, Food, Art & Music? Either way, there are kitties in the crest.

This little duck-footed gem was dangling in a residential street window near the Hallgrímskirkja, eerily twirling in the chilly July air. 

I spotted this unconventional unicorn bust perched atop a modern home in the City Center. And, yes, that is a boob. 

And finally, there's this guy. At least he has goals. And 3D glasses. 

Roving I Recap: Dogs of Pompeii

In the shadow of Vesuvius, the inhabitants of Pompeii wander among the ghosts of the past. Not alone, not a pack, they slowly make their way through the ruins and winding, well-worn paths. They live in a world of their own, ambivalent to the crowds of camera-clad visitors. And as the afternoon heat fades into the welcome relief of the Campania evening air, they keep watch in shifts from available posts in the shade, ever vigilant, always valiant.



Guardians of time. Keepers of history. Protectors of souls. 

Roving I Recap: Sedona Rouge - Approachable Luxury in Red Rock Country

Sedona Rouge

Our second trip to Sedona in two years was a bit last minute - booked, bought and paid for after a discussion (with wine) on a Friday night last fall. Flights secured, my search shifted to finding suitable accommodations. After scouring my trusted sites for last minute deals, I found a bargain at the Sedona Rouge Hotel and Spa.

It's convenient location on Highway 79A had me a bit worried that the road noise would travel, but checking in, I knew I had booked the right place. Our room was located near the back of the property and it was spacious and tastefully decorated with Moroccan touches. The shower was positively enormous. And the view, as in most of Sedona, was jaw-droppingly spectacular. 

Sedona Rouge Spa Suite Room

Daily yoga classes (I almost made it to one!), full-service spa, heated pool and rooftop fire pit make a stay at any time of year even more comfortable. Reds, an upscale restaurant located on the property next to the main office serves breakfast, lunch and dinner. (We very much enjoyed our meal there our last night in town.)

Sedona Rouge Courtyard

Returning to the Sedona Rouge each day with red rock dust covering our shoes after hiking, after winery visits with more wine in hand and after filling mid-winter dinners, we felt very much at home. And the knowledge that we would be waking up to a view of Thunder Mountain made falling asleep that much easier.

Sedona's Stunning Red Rock Views

Roving I Recap: Dining Al Fresco in the Chianti Hills

Before spending time in Tuscany, when I imagined dining in the Tuscan hills (which I often did), I envisioned al fresco meals with candle-lit tables near ancient stone dwellings with rows of deep green cypress trees lining the horizon. After reading the review for La Cantinetta di Rignana in my ever-present Frommer's book, I knew I had found my authentic Tuscan dining experience. Next, we just had to get there.

A rigorous day of sight-seeing in Florence and a bout of Italian rush hour traffic had left us famished for dinner and for the familiar, relaxed Tuscan countryside. We couldn't wait to get back to our peaceful, cypress-lined paradise that I had started to regard as home.

Once back in Greve in Chianti, we followed the somewhat daunting directions in the book that went something like this: Exit Greve to the east. Drive past Montefioralle, follow the one lane road up a steep hill, through several switchbacks until you get to a fork in the road. A simple sign for La Cantinetta di Rignana will guide you left down an unmarked rock road. Follow 3 miles (in the dark) until you reach a tiny stone hamlet perched on the hillside and La Cantinetta di Rignana. 

We wandered through the marked entrance and into a place straight out of my dining daydreams. Once seated at a cozy, candle-lit table, wine was ordered along with a house speciality, "carciofi" (artichoke hearts). The appetizer consisted of ten artichoke hearts that were easily the size of small plums. But, after the first one, the next nine didn't stand a chance. Grown on the property, each one was infused with notes from the native soil and air and sufficiently soaked in inky balsamic vinegar. The flavors of Tuscany lingered in every layer. 

As we dined on fresh regional entrees of cinghiale ravioli, a well-fed cat hunted in the moonlit olive grove adjacent to the restaurant. A snail on the sill lazily made his way out the partly open window into the night. And soft lights flickered on the neighboring hillsides. 

Al fresco perfection achieved, we left our new found find behind and took the long way back to Greve. 

Roving I Recap: Midwest Road Trip in a Lotus, Part 2

The Lotus
The day after the long drive home.

Buckle up for Part 2 of my husband Scott's cross-country adventure in a tiny car. 

"I quickly settle in to the car and I already love it. The motor is singing behind me and there's nothing but the open road before me. Every mechanical sound most car manufacturers try to conceal and muffle is amplified in full stereo spectrum in the Elise. The hum of the motor carries me across the beautiful landscape of Pennsylvania. Unfortunately, a light rain followed me through most of the state and made the view of the mountain range difficult. It was mid afternoon but due to the weather, it seemed much later. In the rain and fog, I cut through and went up and over each silhouette of a mountain. They were majestic, but I would have enjoyed seeing them in the sunlight. I quickly discovered that a car weighing less than a ton and clad with high-performance summer tires do not mix well with rain. It is a little unsettling going twenty miles an hour below the speed limit and still losing traction. After many hours of white knuckle driving down highway 70, I was approaching Pittsburgh and due for my first gas stop.  

Before I left Art’s home earlier, he shared with me that when you stop to get gas, you will be asked about the car and he was right. People would flock to the car asking all kinds of questions. What is it? Who makes it? What type of motor does it have? How much does it cost? 

I saw two guys having a debate a few pumps over and they finally yelled over to me. “Hey, is that a Ferrari?” “Nope, a Lotus,” I replied back. The guy laughed and screamed out a “told you so” to his passenger like he had just won a $100 bet. They both said “nice car” and drove off. I hoped back into the car and continued on.

With Pennsylvania and the rain behind me, I was able to get a true feel for the car and finally enjoy the scenery. Well, that was my plan but in all honesty, Ohio was a blur. There are only two things I remember about driving through Ohio. One, the sun went down as I drove through the state and the other being that I was photographed by a car full of girls. I would like to believe, like most guys, that they were taking a photo of me, but I know this was not the case. I think they did everything to keep up with me in their beat up Cavalier as they took photos. After a few shots, a wave and a thumbs up, they dropped back and took the next exit. I laughed, turned up the radio and drove into the sunset.

Before I knew it, I was approaching the Indiana state boarder and I had covered a large portion of the trip. I perked up a little bit and decided to stop to get gas and a quick bite to eat. If I have to get fast food on the road, there are two places I like to eat: Arby’s and Subway. I know, pretty strange. There wasn’t an Arby’s in sight so Subway would have to do. It was in the back of a run down Mobile gas station operated by an attendant who had more fingers than teeth. Subway had been closed for five minutes, so I grabbed a gas station sandwich. It was horrible, but I survived eating it without needing a tetanus shot. As I walked back to my car, the Subway worker ran out and complimented me on the car. He asked a few questions about the Lotus but quickly shifted the conversation to his own ride. He stated he had owned a twin turbo 2010 Chevy Camaro, but recently ran it into a pole. He told stories of running three second 0-60 passes and how the cold air intake he put on the car added over 100 horsepower. I have never heard so many ludicrous things come from one mouth. His stories were harmless so I played along, but in all honesty I wouldn’t trust the guy to sit on a toilet correctly. He was in mid sentence and all of sudden decided he had to go. He jumped into a beat up Pontiac Sunfire and one-tire-fired it out of the parking lot and he was gone, out of sight. Can this trip get any more interesting? Yep. 

I want to go on official record saying that Indiana has the worst roads I have ever seen. The potholes were the size of manhole covers and they were dead square in the middle of the highway. I drove the whole state of Indiana like a slalom course. One hundred and fifty miles of swerving back and forth would drive anyone nuts and I couldn’t wait to enter Illinois.

It was 11:00 p.m. and I was now somewhere in eastern Illinois. I wouldn’t know that my third and final stop for gas would be the most entertaining. I filled the tank and needed a quick restroom break. As I entered the restroom, there was a group of four guys arguing with one another. At first, I thought I had walked right into the middle of a fight, but I soon found out that they were having one of the craziest arguments I have ever heard.

“You know damn well I can swim across the Mississippi!”   

“Not after it's rained!” 

“It doesn’t matter! I can swim across it anytime. When it’s low, I’ll walk right across it!”  

The argument went back and forth. I was going to ask how far we were from St. Louis, but I felt it would be best to back away, hop in the car and never look back. I was twelve and a half hours into the trip and the last hour was the longest. The last 80 miles might as well of been 800 miles. Each mile seemed to last longer than the one before. It was 40 degrees outside and I had the windows rolled down, music cranked and slapping myself in the face just to stay up. 

Finally, Highway 70 turned into Highway 255 and I was nearly home. By now, it was two in the morning and there wasn’t a car in sight and I got a second and final wind. The last thirty miles were bliss and I knew I had made the right choice purchasing the Elise. It was a great experience driving the car halfway across the country (maybe not Indiana). It was also great meeting Art and sharing our passion about cars with one another. I hope this new friendship lasts and we have the opportunity to share many other car stories in the future. I hope my number 25 sticks around for some time, but I’m not promising anything. So until number 26…

Special thanks to my dear husband for his trip recap. Number 25 better stick around for a while. But, I could be due for a different car one day soon. Or just a couple of vacations. 

Roving I Recap: Midwest Road Trip, in a Lotus

PA to MO

Our family has a new baby - a 2007 Lotus Elise Type 72D. It's 1,984 pounds, 149 inches long and it marks our 25th car since we were married, 10 years ago. Over the years, we've gone to some lengths to get cars: endless hours in dealerships dealing with salesmen in loafers and one saleswoman, also in loafers, flying one state over and driving back one afternoon and finding out a seller falsified the title and then tried to cover it up. Good times. 

But, so far, getting this car takes the cake. It involved extensive travel over one very long day. And, luckily, I didn’t have to go. So, you’re in for a treat today – another guest post from my wonderful, car-obsessed husband, Scott. You’ll laugh, you’ll cry, you’ll shake your head at our insaneness. Enjoy!  

“This is stupid.” 

“What, waking up at four in the morning on a Saturday or driving a Lotus half way across the country?”

“Both.”

My wife Julie was not happy about taking me to the airport that early so I could catch a flight to pick up my most recent car purchase, a 2007 Lotus Elise Type 72D. I would be flying into Newark and driving the car nearly 900 miles from Macungie, PA back home to the St. Louis area. This was not my original plan. My search for a Lotus started back in July when I sold my 2006 Pontiac GTO, soon to be followed by the sale of my second car, a 2005 Mazdaspeed Miata. Both were great cars and fed my need for raw power (the GTO) and handling (Miata). However, the Lotus Elise had always caught my eye from its arrival to the states in 2005; it’s just that my wallet could never afford it. I have gone through my fair share of cars, attempting to find my perfect car. Short from building one on my own, I believe I have finally found my perfect driving companion in the Elise. While most new car buyers check every option box possible, I prefer most items to be left off. No heated seats, ok. No cruise control, I’ll survive. No power steering, yes, please. I like it raw and the Elise delivers. 

The Elise has been available in England since 1996 and some would say it was the replacement for the Lotus Elan, although I do not agree. To meet tough regulations by the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration, Lotus would be given a three year exemption due to the lack of meeting headlight restrictions and no bumpers. In 2007, Lotus would make minor tweaks to the headlights and add 2.5 mph bumpers to the car. Unfortunately, these changes would not be enough for the NHTSA and 2011 would be the last model year for the current Elise. What I love so much about the Elise is also what brought it to its end. Light, raw and totally impractical. I would find out what these three words mean while driving half way across the United States. 

I barely slept the night before as I was eager to see the car. I arrived at the airport early and was one of the first to get on the plane. It was a small plane with less than 19 rows. Luckily it was less than half full, but my ticket had me sitting in the last row, next to the restroom. I was hoping this would not be a tale tell sign of how this trip would work out for me. As I began to get comfortable, a middle-aged woman was putting her items in the overhead compartment just a few aisles from me. She bent over to take a seat and slammed her head right into the overhead compartment. She appeared confused, turned around to the other side of the aisle and began to sit and slammed her head once again. And I thought my day was off to a bad start because I was sitting next to the crapper. The plane took off on time and I dozed off looking out the window at a beautiful sky filled with all the primary colors.

Two hours later I was at the Newark Airport where Art, the current owner of the car would meet me and drive me back to his home in Macungie, PA. I have been talking with Art for nearly a month and as I mentioned before, it was not my plan to drive the car home. After purchasing the car in early September, I made arrangements to have the car transported from Art’s home to mine using Reliable Transport. After waiting over two weeks and no confirmation from Reliable, I decided to give them a call. They told me that they were having difficulty getting a truck to that area. The gentleman on the phone promised that he would continue to work on the situation, but it would probably be in my best interest to look for other transporters. I could read between the lines and I knew I was in for a road trip. I called Art about the situation and he laughed. 

“Kind of ironic that a company called Reliable couldn’t help you, huh?” We both had a chuckle and made flight arrangements to pick up the car. 

Art was waiting out front in his wife’s red Audi A3. I threw my backpack in back and we were off. Art is a true Lotus enthusiast along with an interest in Porsche and Ferrari. He is a walking dictionary of knowledge about Ferrari 308s and even Testarossas. So much so, Art is often asked to judge pristine examples of Lotuses and Ferraris at coveted car events. I asked him what has been the craziest car he has had to critique.

“I had a guy pull up in his Testarossa with tinted windows, huge 22” chrome wheels and neon lights. Testarossas are usually hard to judge. You have 12 red Testarossas sitting there that are all the same and perfect. You could flip a coin to pick the winner and no one would know any better. Not this guy. He had the balls to show up and park his car right next to everyone. It was great.”

The stories continued as we made the hour long drive back to Art’s home. We both shared the cars we have owned and Art discussed his options for his next purchase, either a 1983 Lotus Turbo Espirit Investor's Edition or a new VW Golf GTI. While the general public would cross shop a Honda Accord and a Toyota Camry, enthusiasts think from the heart and not the brain. I understand his dilemma, as I have been there before. We pulled up to the house and the garage door opened, revealing my new car. I checked the car over and everything was perfect. After gathering all the paperwork and some small talk, it was approaching 11:00 am. Art, his wife, Nadine and I decided to go get Mexican for lunch at a nearby restaurant. Thank god I was taking this road trip by myself. After lunch, we took a few photos, shook hands and promised to stay in touch. I hopped into my new purchase and started out on the long drive home.

Scott, Art and the Lotus

Stay tuned for Part 2 of Scott’s adventure and, of course, the big reveal of baby Lotus! 

Roving I Recap: Artisan Sandals from the Island of Capri

We passed Antonio Viva’s shop on our first night on Capri. The name on the awning intrigued me. The window lured me over. Glimmering and glamorous island walkers in colorful leathers and beads stood side by side, framed by photos of their creator and decades of satisfied customers, patiently awaiting their perfect fits, night after night.

My Capri to-do list got longer as I stared at the hand-crafted soles and straps behind the pane but the “closed” sign and late hour meant that my footwear pursuit would have to wait until the next day.

When we passed by the next afternoon, Antonio’s dog was the first to greet us, wagging his tail as we wandered closer. Antonio himself was seated outside his shop. Dressed in a bright green shirt and a simple, striped apron, he expertly navigated the tray of tools in front of him as he chatted with potential customers and locals in broken English and elegant Italian. His window display from the night before now provided a makeshift wall of sparkling soles. The smell of leather was intoxicating, even outdoors.

While his existing inventory was expansive, the idea of having sandals created especially for me was far too appealing. And after inquiring about the price, I started searching his wares and designs for my perfect fit, for one that could be uniquely my own. The island’s powers and vivid color palette must have wooed me, leading me to choose a very un-me but very Capri deep purple leather upper with gold attachments.

Antonio began assembling my new shoes, proudly reciting stories about the times he created sandals for the legendary Sophia Loren and Jackie O and, more recently, American Food Network personality Giada DeLaurentiis. As I listened intently, I wondered if he tells all his customers about his brushes with famous feet or if I just appeared to be someone who would appreciate his tales. Either way, his light conversation was a welcome side effect of his work.  

Twenty minutes later, I slid my feet into my completed sandals for the very first time. Simple, comfortable and crafted of timeless traditions, they left their creator that day. And just like Sophia Loren, I left Capri with a little piece of its skill, its art and its unmistakable style.

Antonio at Work

My Sandals, in Progress

My New Sandals

Roving I Recap: Morning Walk in Greve in Chianti

  Villa Gate

The sounds of Greve in Chianti greeted us each morning: a tractor working in a nearby Chianti vineyard, a hammer trying to undo time in a stone structure in the distance and a perfectly-timed but cliched rooster crow. In Tuscany, even sounds are beautiful. 

On our last full day in Tuscany, I was awake and dressed as soon as the bright Italian sun beamed through the open balcony doors, beating the rooster's mildly raucous alarm. Meeting my cousins downstairs, we began our walk into town via the well-worn vineyard path. The sunlight, already reflecting off the grapevine leaves, was warm on our backs as we made our way through the antique, scrolled, wrought-iron gate.

My Fellow Morning Walkers, John and Isabella

We were in search of the perfect cup of coffee and Italian pastry. Fighting jet lag, my cousin John had wandered into town earlier in the week and discovered a sugar-covered, custard-filled beauty at a tiny coffee shop. The tale of its deliciousness had spread throughout the villa making this very pastry the reason for my unreasonably early wake up call.  

As we made our way through the grapevines and olive groves and down the hillside to the city center, we passed children in pajamas hanging their legs over the balcony watching with curiosity as three obvious non-Italians walked by, an old woman wearing a crimson kerchief meandering slowly towards the church on the square and a crowded bakery packed with loud-speaking locals pointing at the gorgeous selection of pastries behind the glass. We narrowly escaped the alluring scent of warm, sweet cream and powdered sugar.

Greve in Chianti Square (or Triangle)

Three coffee shops on the town square promised exceptional espresso but offered no custard-filled indulgences. So, on we went. Our search ended ten minutes later at a tiny coffeehouse near the grocery store. In the morning light, the legendary donut-like pastry was a beautiful sight with its glittering, sugar-coated exterior. The coffee shop owner was an older man who looked at us as though he could see through us as we attempted to order in Italian. But I did catch a tiny grin on the left side of his lips when I pronounced “per favore” correctly.

My caffé latte arrived seconds later with special touch, a cinnamon heart with an arrow through it floating in the froth, proving that the cafe owner was not as aloof as he seemed. John’s Caffé Americano was served with a cinnamon smiley face with a big nose. One bite into the pastry, I knew it was worth every step of the exhaustive search.

Italian breakfast perfection achieved, we headed back to the villa at a considerably slower pace but a little more in step with the Tuscan way of life. 

Breakfast Perfection in Greve

Sweet Surprise 

Path Between the Olive Grove and Grapes

Lone Flower 

Roving I Recap: Italy Itinerary

Us, in Siena

I'm kicking off a series of Roving I Recaps about our Italy trip with a brief overview of where we went and how long we stayed in each location. While the recap posts ahead will focus more on specific aspects of each location and the unique moments we experienced throughout Italy, today's post is a big picture look at our travel plan.

June 26-27: 2 Planes, 2 Trains and a Very Small Automobile
After zipping up the luggage, obsessively checking and rechecking appliances, doors and windows and catching our first flight from St. Louis to Chicago, we boarded our 9 hour flight to Rome. Upon arrival, we shifted into true transportation mode, taking the Leonardo Express local train to Rome Termini where we caught a second train to Santa Maria Novella train station in Florence. In Florence, we took a cab to the airport to pick up our beyond tiny and extremely under powered Fiat 500 (more to come on its vices and virtues later in the week). One painfully expensive wrong turn on the Autostrada A1 later, we were finally on the last leg of our lengthy journey to Greve in Chianti, Tuscany. Despite being drowsy, hungry and frustrated with the Italian highway system, the Tuscan view out the window as we sped away from Florence was the perfect reward to our almost 24 hours straight of travel. 


June 27-July 2: Chianti Country Charm 
I've never been so in love with a vacation location. Seriously. I knew it would be good but never expected this level of sheer admiration. Days were spent enjoying time with family (we stayed in a fantastic villa with my cousins from New Jersey), driving the Chiantigana, visiting nearby hill towns (more to come about specific locales), eating extraordinary local food and drinking famous Chianti Classico wine every chance I got. (I could devote a week's worth of posts to this beautiful burgundy beverage.)


July 2- July 4: Roving About Rome
We were typical tourists, but active ones. After being pushed, shoved and stepped on by the flag/flower/ridiculous hat following tour groups at the Vatican Museums, we ventured out on foot for day 2. Walking from the Vatican area to Piazza Navona, the Pantheon, Trevi Fountain, the Colosseum, back up to the Spanish Steps, down Via Condotti, we made it back over to Ponte Sant'Angelo area in time for dinner. Legs thoroughly stretched, we left Rome by car for southern Italy on the 4th of July.

And one more of us, in Rome

July 4-7: Pompeii, Positano and Amalfi Coast Amazingness
Pompeii wowed us, an accidental drive through Naples shocked us and Positano welcomed us with warm Italian arms. A world away from Rome, we settled into a leisurely lifestyle amongst the steep hills, hidden beaches and stellar views of the Amalfi Coast. 

July 7-9: Celebrating on Capri
After hauling our growing luggage collection through Sorrento, and arriving by Hydrofoil to the island of Capri, Casa Mariontonia appeared as a stylish, lemon-scented paradise. A private boat ride, some shopping and a very special ceremony capped off our Capri time.


July 9: Rome, Again
Arriving by train from Naples for our last day in Italy was beyond bittersweet. Walking shoes reinstated, we wandered from our hotel near Termini to Galleria Borghese to Trevi Fountain, proving that the coin toss tradition really does work. 


July 10: Home, Again
A wonderful whirlwind came to an end, until the next trip. 


Another Italy trip recap next week. More tomorrow and thanks for reading!

Roving I Recap: Cathedral Rock Cairns

Cathedral Rock Cairn
Sedona, Arizona
December 2009

In December of 2009, I had never heard the word "cairn." The landmark markers were known to me only by their photos, not by their name or purpose. As we began our hiking day on the flat and easy Cathedral Rock trail, we were already completely captivated with Sedona. Beauty was everywhere - from the massive Red Rock sculptures to the laid-back Southwest spirit. So I shouldn't have been surprised to discover unbelievable beauty in an elegantly stacked pile of rocks. 

We came across one early on the path. It was simple, at most five stones. But the creator had taken the time to add a certain level of visual interest to it by placing a smaller stone underneath a large one. Despite its gravity-defying design, it stood proud in the pre-snow air. 

When the trail opened up to a dry creek bed basin, we quickly realized that the first stack was only a preview of the feature presentation. Hundreds of cairns filled the basin. Stones were carefully stacked everywhere - on the ground, in trees, on fallen branches and on other stacks of stones. 

The invitation sent, we quickly accepted, grabbing available stones to leave our own marks on the already over-landmarked landscape. It was great fun stacking and unstacking stones to build soaring, but precarious structures, others that were small and stocky and "mixed media" creations that combined smooth stones with natural elements including leaves, shells and twigs. When it was time to make our way to our second hike, I was sad to leave my new contemplative playground.  

I later learned that cairns are left on hiking trails to help passers-by find their way. On that December morning, we found ours, in the shadow of a Sedona legend.  

Cathedral Rock
Sedona, Arizona
December 2009

 Cairn Central
Sedona, Arizona
December 2009

Roving I Week One: My New Passport Stamp

Last week, I entered a new territory. I'm a blogger now. One week into this journey, I feel like I have earned this stamp. I'm quite proud, actually.

But, while traveling by the seat of your pants can be fun, sometimes it's good to have a plan. I think that rule can apply to blogs too.

Here's the Roving Itinerary: 
Monday:
Roving I Recap - A trip report of sorts, focusing on current or past trips, depending on where I'm writing from.

Tuesday:
Roving Pic - A photo feature from the family album.

Wednesday:
Roving IQ - Tips, gear and advice from travel pros.

Thursday:
Roving I Finds - A destination deal that's worth booking on the spot, with a focus on living large with a small to moderate budget.

Friday:
Web Roves - Travel sites, blogs and writing that inspire me and my passport.

Saturday and Sunday:
Roving I Standby - I may get on, I may not. Either way, I'll try to keep it interesting.

Hopefully, you'll want to stop by to check out what's new and share your adventures, tips and comments with me. After all, it's a big world. It's nice to know you have friends out there.

Happy Roving!