Roving Pic: A Desert Winery in Winter

Desert Winery Workhorse
Verde Valley, Arizona
December 2011

The grapes had long been picked. The desert air had cooled. But, despite the change in season, the winery workhorse remained in its place, guarding the bare vines and the promise of harvests to come.

Roving I Recap: Sedona Rouge - Approachable Luxury in Red Rock Country

Sedona Rouge

Our second trip to Sedona in two years was a bit last minute - booked, bought and paid for after a discussion (with wine) on a Friday night last fall. Flights secured, my search shifted to finding suitable accommodations. After scouring my trusted sites for last minute deals, I found a bargain at the Sedona Rouge Hotel and Spa.

It's convenient location on Highway 79A had me a bit worried that the road noise would travel, but checking in, I knew I had booked the right place. Our room was located near the back of the property and it was spacious and tastefully decorated with Moroccan touches. The shower was positively enormous. And the view, as in most of Sedona, was jaw-droppingly spectacular. 

Sedona Rouge Spa Suite Room

Daily yoga classes (I almost made it to one!), full-service spa, heated pool and rooftop fire pit make a stay at any time of year even more comfortable. Reds, an upscale restaurant located on the property next to the main office serves breakfast, lunch and dinner. (We very much enjoyed our meal there our last night in town.)

Sedona Rouge Courtyard

Returning to the Sedona Rouge each day with red rock dust covering our shoes after hiking, after winery visits with more wine in hand and after filling mid-winter dinners, we felt very much at home. And the knowledge that we would be waking up to a view of Thunder Mountain made falling asleep that much easier.

Sedona's Stunning Red Rock Views

Roving Pic: Red Rock Sunset

Sedona at Sunset
December 2011

Majestic. Muted. Magical.

Roving Pic: Lone Tree

Lone Tree
Sedona, Arizona
December 2011
Photo: Scott Clark

Left alone and lovely, its twisted form scattered delicate slivers of shade on its red rock resting place.

Roving Pic: On the Edge

Private Property
Jerome, Arizona
December 2011
Photo: Scott Clark

On the edge of a cliff, supported by a never-ending view and ever-shifting red and gray grit. On the edge of destruction, cracked, crumbling and awkwardly crooked. On the edge of time, suspended in a past that still lingers in the dry, high desert air.

Roving Pic: Red Rocked

Red Giants
Sedona, AZ
December 2011
Photo: Scott Clark

As we followed the trail deeper into canyon, the red giants slept, growing taller and more magnificent with every step. Sufficiently awed and thoroughly amazed, we walked on in wonder amongst them.

Roving I Finds: Southwest Savings

There's something magical about the desert. After growing up surrounded by green grass and leafy trees, the first time I saw the deep orange and red rock-laden landscape I was in complete awe. And I still am every time I go back. Today's finds are focused on the Southwest. Enjoy!

• Santa Fe, New Mexico: The Encantado, A wonderful retreat, nestled deep in the high desert hills. We stayed here last winter and enjoyed the setting, the amenities (in-room Casita!) and delightful details that make this place a truly indulgent escape. Book through Jetsetter.com for rates as low as $235/night for available dates through February 2012.

Photo: Encantado Resort

• Sedona, Arizona: One of my favorite places in the world, so far. With its looming Red Rock giants everywhere you look, Sedona is simply breathtaking. The Four Diamond Sedona Rouge has an incredible Midweek Special through the end of the year where you can save 20% off regular rates for midweek stays. More info here.

Photo: Sedona Rouge

• Austin, Texas: Travelzoo.com has a Luxe Body & Soul package at the Travaasa Austin that includes unlimited access to classes including yoga, pilates, meditation and cooking demonstrations. Book a 2-day weekday stay for $429 for dates through February 2012. Details here.

Photo: Travaasa Austin

Thanks for reading!

Roving I Recap: Cathedral Rock Cairns

Cathedral Rock Cairn
Sedona, Arizona
December 2009

In December of 2009, I had never heard the word "cairn." The landmark markers were known to me only by their photos, not by their name or purpose. As we began our hiking day on the flat and easy Cathedral Rock trail, we were already completely captivated with Sedona. Beauty was everywhere - from the massive Red Rock sculptures to the laid-back Southwest spirit. So I shouldn't have been surprised to discover unbelievable beauty in an elegantly stacked pile of rocks. 

We came across one early on the path. It was simple, at most five stones. But the creator had taken the time to add a certain level of visual interest to it by placing a smaller stone underneath a large one. Despite its gravity-defying design, it stood proud in the pre-snow air. 

When the trail opened up to a dry creek bed basin, we quickly realized that the first stack was only a preview of the feature presentation. Hundreds of cairns filled the basin. Stones were carefully stacked everywhere - on the ground, in trees, on fallen branches and on other stacks of stones. 

The invitation sent, we quickly accepted, grabbing available stones to leave our own marks on the already over-landmarked landscape. It was great fun stacking and unstacking stones to build soaring, but precarious structures, others that were small and stocky and "mixed media" creations that combined smooth stones with natural elements including leaves, shells and twigs. When it was time to make our way to our second hike, I was sad to leave my new contemplative playground.  

I later learned that cairns are left on hiking trails to help passers-by find their way. On that December morning, we found ours, in the shadow of a Sedona legend.  

Cathedral Rock
Sedona, Arizona
December 2009

 Cairn Central
Sedona, Arizona
December 2009

Roving Pic: Sedona in the Snow

Sedona, Devil's Bridge
December 2009
Photo: Scott Clark

Today's photo is a continuation of yesterday's post on snowy Sedona. Devil's Bridge is a narrow Red Rock expanse that connects two sides of a small mesa. It's an incredible sight any time of year but the snow added a special touch and some wonderful contrast. The hike itself is short and sweet but the drive to the trail head was an adventure of its own. Our non-4x4 rental car barely survived. Maybe that's why it's called Devil's Bridge?

Roving I Recap: Snowdona

When planning a winter trip, snow, ice and cold are extremely low on my wish list. I aim to go somewhere with an average temperature at least twenty degrees warmer than our hometown of St. Louis, MO. Sedona, Arizona seemed like a safe bet. It's in the middle of the desert, offers endless places to hike, dine and explore and it has an average snowfall of a mere nine inches per year. Sold.

When we arrived in Sedona two days after Christmas in 2009, in a holiday haze, it was dark - desert dark. As we approached town, we could make out silhouettes of sleeping giants when the headlights hit them on turns. It's was an incredibly tantalizing sight and we wanted more.

The next morning, we were not disappointed. Coming from the flat, green, corn and soybean-covered Midwest, the Sedona landscape was foreign and fantastic. The sleeping giants from the night before awoke as burnt orange, cream and brown rock formations. They provided a buffet of spectacular views in every direction. We were in absolute awe, enjoying every last morsel of the surroundings until we got wind of the approaching cold front.

Knowing snow in Sedona is a rare event, we set out to hike expecting a chilly but dry day. However, our expectations failed to line up with the weatherman's. As we pulled into the parking lot for our second hike, Doe Mountain, the sky was filling with flurries.

The flurries quickly turned to fluffy flakes and proceeded to playfully smack us in the face as we made our way up the trail to the top of the mesa. About halfway up I was struck by the realization that this was actually a perfect day for hiking in Sedona. The trail was deserted, aside from a few hikers on their way down. The landscape was covered in snow, a truly unique state for this dry terrain. And the sky, peaks and plateaus provided endless opportunities for our breath to be taken away. And it was with every step.

The snow in Sedona gave us more than just incredible photo opps. It gave us time alone with Sedona, time to see its hidden, softer side, and time to fall in love with the place. I know we'll be going back, probably in a more temperate time of year, but I'll be hoping for that impossible dusting of snow to bring back a little of the wonder from our first snowy visit.  

Scott in Snowy Sedona
December 2009

Scott standing on Devil's Bridge
Sedona, AZ
December 2009