Roving IQ: Casa Mariantonia, Capri

Positano is a mere 13 miles from the island of Capri. But after driving from Positano to Sorrento, returning the rental car, hauling the entirety of our luggage a mile or more through the streets of Sorrento down to the harbor in the 90 degree heat, catching the hydrofoil to Capri and taking a taxi to Anacapri, I was relieved beyond belief to walk through the front gate of Casa Mariantonia.  

Stylish, simple and sublime, Casa Mariantonia is a relaxed oasis residing at the top of another long-established oasis in the Mediterranean, the island of Capri. Its location, in the shadow of Monte Solaro and the iconic chairlift, make Casa Mariantonia as convenient as it is chic. 

At check-in, we were greeted by genuine Italian hospitality, elegant surroundings and a bowl of the largest lemons I have ever seen, grown on the property. 

After being shown our lovely, lemon-scented room, we finally landed poolside for the remainder of the afternoon. The morning's marathon transfer to the island was more than enough to warrant some down time in the sun. Lucky for us, invitations to relax were everywhere. Lounge by the pool, in a hammock in the lemon tree grove or on your private terrace. 

Breakfast was served al fresco near the pool and offered a serene start to a summer's day on Capri. 

ALL PHOTOS: Casa Mariantonia

When returning from dinner each evening, Casa Mariantonia appeared welcoming and inviting, its softly lit exterior highlighting the property's best features. 

Understated. Unassuming. Elegant. Casa Mariantonia shines as a moderately-priced Mediterranean retreat. 

Roving Pic: Sunset over Capri

Anniversary Sunset
July 8, 2011

It took 10 years to the day, 5200 miles and countless perfect moments to get to this place. Nine years, nine months and 25 days from now, I can only hope the view will be this good - and that we'll be the ones on that boat.

Roving I Recap: Artisan Sandals from the Island of Capri

We passed Antonio Viva’s shop on our first night on Capri. The name on the awning intrigued me. The window lured me over. Glimmering and glamorous island walkers in colorful leathers and beads stood side by side, framed by photos of their creator and decades of satisfied customers, patiently awaiting their perfect fits, night after night.

My Capri to-do list got longer as I stared at the hand-crafted soles and straps behind the pane but the “closed” sign and late hour meant that my footwear pursuit would have to wait until the next day.

When we passed by the next afternoon, Antonio’s dog was the first to greet us, wagging his tail as we wandered closer. Antonio himself was seated outside his shop. Dressed in a bright green shirt and a simple, striped apron, he expertly navigated the tray of tools in front of him as he chatted with potential customers and locals in broken English and elegant Italian. His window display from the night before now provided a makeshift wall of sparkling soles. The smell of leather was intoxicating, even outdoors.

While his existing inventory was expansive, the idea of having sandals created especially for me was far too appealing. And after inquiring about the price, I started searching his wares and designs for my perfect fit, for one that could be uniquely my own. The island’s powers and vivid color palette must have wooed me, leading me to choose a very un-me but very Capri deep purple leather upper with gold attachments.

Antonio began assembling my new shoes, proudly reciting stories about the times he created sandals for the legendary Sophia Loren and Jackie O and, more recently, American Food Network personality Giada DeLaurentiis. As I listened intently, I wondered if he tells all his customers about his brushes with famous feet or if I just appeared to be someone who would appreciate his tales. Either way, his light conversation was a welcome side effect of his work.  

Twenty minutes later, I slid my feet into my completed sandals for the very first time. Simple, comfortable and crafted of timeless traditions, they left their creator that day. And just like Sophia Loren, I left Capri with a little piece of its skill, its art and its unmistakable style.

Antonio at Work

My Sandals, in Progress

My New Sandals

Roving Pic: Capri's Sandal Maker

Capri's Sandal Maker
July 2011
Photo: Scott Clark

He was jovial for a hot and humid afternoon in Anacapri as he wove leather through his fingers and into art. Part historian, part artisan, part celebrity, he sits outside of his shop among pairs of pre-made footwear perfection, laughing and chatting with passers-by. Dressed in a simple apron with well-worn tools in hand, he works every day, fitting soles to feet and finally, sandals to souls, each pair leaving his hands crafted of timeless tradition and love.

Roving Pic: Night Walk in Anacapri

Anacapri at Night
July 2011
Photo: Scott Clark

We turned off the pedestrian street onto a narrow, residential walkway. Behind stucco walls and elegantly scrolled, wrought iron gates, we could see people gathered together in softly-lit gardens, on balconies and in dining rooms, celebrating a mid-summer evening. Glasses, heavy with wine, clinked together, toasting a beautiful moment in the Mediterranean. Laughter, lovely Italian phrases and lightness filled the air around us. And we walked back towards the main road in the dim light, taking our tiny snapshot of island life in Anacapri with us.

Roving I Recap: Italy Itinerary

Us, in Siena

I'm kicking off a series of Roving I Recaps about our Italy trip with a brief overview of where we went and how long we stayed in each location. While the recap posts ahead will focus more on specific aspects of each location and the unique moments we experienced throughout Italy, today's post is a big picture look at our travel plan.

June 26-27: 2 Planes, 2 Trains and a Very Small Automobile
After zipping up the luggage, obsessively checking and rechecking appliances, doors and windows and catching our first flight from St. Louis to Chicago, we boarded our 9 hour flight to Rome. Upon arrival, we shifted into true transportation mode, taking the Leonardo Express local train to Rome Termini where we caught a second train to Santa Maria Novella train station in Florence. In Florence, we took a cab to the airport to pick up our beyond tiny and extremely under powered Fiat 500 (more to come on its vices and virtues later in the week). One painfully expensive wrong turn on the Autostrada A1 later, we were finally on the last leg of our lengthy journey to Greve in Chianti, Tuscany. Despite being drowsy, hungry and frustrated with the Italian highway system, the Tuscan view out the window as we sped away from Florence was the perfect reward to our almost 24 hours straight of travel. 


June 27-July 2: Chianti Country Charm 
I've never been so in love with a vacation location. Seriously. I knew it would be good but never expected this level of sheer admiration. Days were spent enjoying time with family (we stayed in a fantastic villa with my cousins from New Jersey), driving the Chiantigana, visiting nearby hill towns (more to come about specific locales), eating extraordinary local food and drinking famous Chianti Classico wine every chance I got. (I could devote a week's worth of posts to this beautiful burgundy beverage.)


July 2- July 4: Roving About Rome
We were typical tourists, but active ones. After being pushed, shoved and stepped on by the flag/flower/ridiculous hat following tour groups at the Vatican Museums, we ventured out on foot for day 2. Walking from the Vatican area to Piazza Navona, the Pantheon, Trevi Fountain, the Colosseum, back up to the Spanish Steps, down Via Condotti, we made it back over to Ponte Sant'Angelo area in time for dinner. Legs thoroughly stretched, we left Rome by car for southern Italy on the 4th of July.

And one more of us, in Rome

July 4-7: Pompeii, Positano and Amalfi Coast Amazingness
Pompeii wowed us, an accidental drive through Naples shocked us and Positano welcomed us with warm Italian arms. A world away from Rome, we settled into a leisurely lifestyle amongst the steep hills, hidden beaches and stellar views of the Amalfi Coast. 

July 7-9: Celebrating on Capri
After hauling our growing luggage collection through Sorrento, and arriving by Hydrofoil to the island of Capri, Casa Mariontonia appeared as a stylish, lemon-scented paradise. A private boat ride, some shopping and a very special ceremony capped off our Capri time.


July 9: Rome, Again
Arriving by train from Naples for our last day in Italy was beyond bittersweet. Walking shoes reinstated, we wandered from our hotel near Termini to Galleria Borghese to Trevi Fountain, proving that the coin toss tradition really does work. 


July 10: Home, Again
A wonderful whirlwind came to an end, until the next trip. 


Another Italy trip recap next week. More tomorrow and thanks for reading!