Roving I Recap: Dogs of Pompeii

In the shadow of Vesuvius, the inhabitants of Pompeii wander among the ghosts of the past. Not alone, not a pack, they slowly make their way through the ruins and winding, well-worn paths. They live in a world of their own, ambivalent to the crowds of camera-clad visitors. And as the afternoon heat fades into the welcome relief of the Campania evening air, they keep watch in shifts from available posts in the shade, ever vigilant, always valiant.



Guardians of time. Keepers of history. Protectors of souls. 

Roving Pic: Vintage Positano

Vintage Shop with a View
 Positano, Italy
July 2011

The Amalfi Coast treasures in front of us couldn't compete with the one behind us. 

Roving Pic: Siena Today

 Siena
July 2011 

Siena's past was pressed beautifully into every stone, structure and side street, making the present difficult to see.

Roving Pic: Edge of the World

View from Ravello
July 2011

Our time in lovely Ravello can be summed up with this: One short-lived afternoon with a never-ending view. 

Roving Pic: Day on the Bay

Bay
July 2011
Photo: Scott Clark

On the surface, it appeared to be a dreary, drizzly day in Positano. But, as the hours slipped by, I realized it was right as rain.

Roving Pic: Positano From Above

A Positano Evening
July 2011
Photo: Scott Clark

Below us, a twinkling gem was tucked neatly into the hillside. In front of us, the gray sea stretched out, engulfing the horizon. Above us, night slipped in, one delicate shade of darkness at a time.  

Roving Pic: Hide & Seek

Hide & Seek
Positano, Italy
July 2011
Photo: Scott Clark

The Amalfi Coast air was warm on July 5th. A fingernail moon floated above us and on the waves as we walked, gelato in hand, toward the water. A group of children were already there, dodging each other in the darkness, taking turns counting to "dieci." As they stealthily ducked out of site, cloaked by vacant lounge chairs and closed umbrellas, I realized that a summer night at the beach in Italy was a lot like a summer night at the beach in the States. 

Roving I Recap: Dining Al Fresco in the Chianti Hills

Before spending time in Tuscany, when I imagined dining in the Tuscan hills (which I often did), I envisioned al fresco meals with candle-lit tables near ancient stone dwellings with rows of deep green cypress trees lining the horizon. After reading the review for La Cantinetta di Rignana in my ever-present Frommer's book, I knew I had found my authentic Tuscan dining experience. Next, we just had to get there.

A rigorous day of sight-seeing in Florence and a bout of Italian rush hour traffic had left us famished for dinner and for the familiar, relaxed Tuscan countryside. We couldn't wait to get back to our peaceful, cypress-lined paradise that I had started to regard as home.

Once back in Greve in Chianti, we followed the somewhat daunting directions in the book that went something like this: Exit Greve to the east. Drive past Montefioralle, follow the one lane road up a steep hill, through several switchbacks until you get to a fork in the road. A simple sign for La Cantinetta di Rignana will guide you left down an unmarked rock road. Follow 3 miles (in the dark) until you reach a tiny stone hamlet perched on the hillside and La Cantinetta di Rignana. 

We wandered through the marked entrance and into a place straight out of my dining daydreams. Once seated at a cozy, candle-lit table, wine was ordered along with a house speciality, "carciofi" (artichoke hearts). The appetizer consisted of ten artichoke hearts that were easily the size of small plums. But, after the first one, the next nine didn't stand a chance. Grown on the property, each one was infused with notes from the native soil and air and sufficiently soaked in inky balsamic vinegar. The flavors of Tuscany lingered in every layer. 

As we dined on fresh regional entrees of cinghiale ravioli, a well-fed cat hunted in the moonlit olive grove adjacent to the restaurant. A snail on the sill lazily made his way out the partly open window into the night. And soft lights flickered on the neighboring hillsides. 

Al fresco perfection achieved, we left our new found find behind and took the long way back to Greve. 

Roving Pic: Cellar

Verrazzano Cellar
July 2011
Photo: Scott Clark

Dimly-lit and with a distinct chill even in the Tuscan summer heat, the cellar surrounded us with scents of French oak and warm, waiting Chianti wine. The barrels stood guard, silent and proud, reflecting a stream of morning light and centuries of tradition.

Roving Pic: Fork

Chianti Country Fork
July 2011
Photo: Scott Clark

Getting lost wasn't our plan. When we reached this sparsely-marked fork, we searched in vain for a sign that would tell us we were headed in the right direction. Then we realized that we already were.

Roving Pic: Curious in Italy

Hiding Place
July 2011
Photo: Scott Clark

He was watching us as we were watching him. From his hiding place in the doorway of an ancient stone façade, he sensed our foreign-ness but remained cautiously curious. In this passing moment, it was just him, the native and us, the strangers, finding common ground on Tuscan soil. 

Roving I Finds: The Great Outdoors on Sale

The Haylofts
Photo: Valde

I pretty much suck at camping. I admit it. Why would I trudge into the wilderness to sleep with the wildlife when I can pay perfectly good money for a nearby 4-star hotel with a comfy bed, hot shower, continental breakfast and lovely wilderness views? My finds this week are focused on those very properties - amazing hotels and accommodations that make experiencing "The Great Outdoors" so much more enjoyable.

• Valde Haylofts, Italy: I've never heard of "glamping" but if it's anything like what this place offers, count me in. About an hour from both Milan and Zurich, high in the mountains above Chiavenna, Italy, the Haylofts are a small grouping of restored cottages from the 1700s that offer luxury and simplicity at the same time. Book through Jetsetter.com by next week for special savings on stays through February 2012. 

Photos: Valde

• Evergreen Lodge, Yosemite: Another Jetsetter find. Situated just outside of California's legendary Yosemite National Park, these cedar-sided cabins offer coziness and comfort after a long day of exploring the wonders of Yosemite. Prices are as low as $125/night for stays through March 2012 if you book by Sunday.

Photo: Evergreen Lodge

• Tenaya Lodge, Yosemite: Also near Yosemite is Tenaya Lodge, a 4 Diamond property with lots of amenities. Travelzoo.com has a deal for 50% off rates for dates through December, bringing your per night price to as low as $129.

Photo: Tenaya Lodge

• Snake River Lodge, Wyoming: And one final pick from Jetsetter - A little rustic, a little modern, Snake River Lodge is located near Grand Teton National Park and is perfectly placed for skiing. You can book dates throughout ski season for as low as $190/night.  

Photo: Snake River Lodge

• Bear Creek Lodge, Colorado: Book by tomorrow through Travelzoo.com to get savings of up to 40% off a one-bedroom condo at this modern Telluride ski retreat. The savings include peak ski season dates through March with rates starting at $211. More details here.

Roving Pic: Walking in Radda

Afternoon Walk
Photo: Scott Clark 
July 2011

They stepped out of their doorway and stepped back in time as they turned down a familiar path in Radda in Chianti. They were no longer in their later years. They weren't slowed by time. They were just two people in love, walking arm in arm on a cloudy afternoon, surrounded by vineyards, cypress-lined hills and memories.

If, in the twilight of my life, I spend my days walking through Chianti country with the one I love, I have no doubt that I will die with a very satisfied soul. 

Roving Pic: Towers of San Gimignano

Towers
Photo: Scott Clark
July 2011

We could see the towers of San Gimignano as we approached from the hills to the east. The majestic, medieval structures grew taller with every passing mile until we entered the city walls and stood beneath them. Amidst the fifteen towers, we walked in wonder as the mid-afternoon sun caused them to cast shadows on the ancient, winding walkways below. Guarded by their winged inhabitants, the towers stood tall, unwavering, unyielding and unaware of time.

Roving Pic: Columns of Pompeii

Victorious Vesuvius
July 2011

Century after century, the columns stood in the shadow of a giant, in defiance of its power. And centuries later, we stood in awe of them.

Roving IQ: Casa Mariantonia, Capri

Positano is a mere 13 miles from the island of Capri. But after driving from Positano to Sorrento, returning the rental car, hauling the entirety of our luggage a mile or more through the streets of Sorrento down to the harbor in the 90 degree heat, catching the hydrofoil to Capri and taking a taxi to Anacapri, I was relieved beyond belief to walk through the front gate of Casa Mariantonia.  

Stylish, simple and sublime, Casa Mariantonia is a relaxed oasis residing at the top of another long-established oasis in the Mediterranean, the island of Capri. Its location, in the shadow of Monte Solaro and the iconic chairlift, make Casa Mariantonia as convenient as it is chic. 

At check-in, we were greeted by genuine Italian hospitality, elegant surroundings and a bowl of the largest lemons I have ever seen, grown on the property. 

After being shown our lovely, lemon-scented room, we finally landed poolside for the remainder of the afternoon. The morning's marathon transfer to the island was more than enough to warrant some down time in the sun. Lucky for us, invitations to relax were everywhere. Lounge by the pool, in a hammock in the lemon tree grove or on your private terrace. 

Breakfast was served al fresco near the pool and offered a serene start to a summer's day on Capri. 

ALL PHOTOS: Casa Mariantonia

When returning from dinner each evening, Casa Mariantonia appeared welcoming and inviting, its softly lit exterior highlighting the property's best features. 

Understated. Unassuming. Elegant. Casa Mariantonia shines as a moderately-priced Mediterranean retreat. 

Roving Pic: Sunset over Capri

Anniversary Sunset
July 8, 2011

It took 10 years to the day, 5200 miles and countless perfect moments to get to this place. Nine years, nine months and 25 days from now, I can only hope the view will be this good - and that we'll be the ones on that boat.

Roving Pic: The Wrath of Grapes

Grape Drying Racks
Castello di Verrazzano, Greve in Chianti
July 2011
Photo: Scott Clark

Ancient grape torture devices hang in the drying room at Castello di Verrazzano. Oak strips spiked with simple nails stretch from the centuries old ceiling to the floor far below. For several months each year, they sadistically dry white grapes in the warm, ventilated air, unknowingly sweetening them, one by one, in pursuit of Holy Wine perfection. 

Roving Pic: Santa Maria Assunta and the Sea

Santa Maria Assunta and the Sea
July 2011
Photo: Scott Clark

The clouds had cleared leaving behind blue skies and bluer seas. Positano was positively in bloom as we made our way down the steep cobblestone street to the seaside. To our right were shops with hand-crafted ceramics painted by hand, limoncello vendors vending their legendary liqueurs and balconies with the locals' laundry billowing in the lemon-scented breeze. To our left was this view. Heads sufficiently turned, we continued our descent, eagerly awaiting the next discovery Positano had planned for us. 

Roving I Recap: Artisan Sandals from the Island of Capri

We passed Antonio Viva’s shop on our first night on Capri. The name on the awning intrigued me. The window lured me over. Glimmering and glamorous island walkers in colorful leathers and beads stood side by side, framed by photos of their creator and decades of satisfied customers, patiently awaiting their perfect fits, night after night.

My Capri to-do list got longer as I stared at the hand-crafted soles and straps behind the pane but the “closed” sign and late hour meant that my footwear pursuit would have to wait until the next day.

When we passed by the next afternoon, Antonio’s dog was the first to greet us, wagging his tail as we wandered closer. Antonio himself was seated outside his shop. Dressed in a bright green shirt and a simple, striped apron, he expertly navigated the tray of tools in front of him as he chatted with potential customers and locals in broken English and elegant Italian. His window display from the night before now provided a makeshift wall of sparkling soles. The smell of leather was intoxicating, even outdoors.

While his existing inventory was expansive, the idea of having sandals created especially for me was far too appealing. And after inquiring about the price, I started searching his wares and designs for my perfect fit, for one that could be uniquely my own. The island’s powers and vivid color palette must have wooed me, leading me to choose a very un-me but very Capri deep purple leather upper with gold attachments.

Antonio began assembling my new shoes, proudly reciting stories about the times he created sandals for the legendary Sophia Loren and Jackie O and, more recently, American Food Network personality Giada DeLaurentiis. As I listened intently, I wondered if he tells all his customers about his brushes with famous feet or if I just appeared to be someone who would appreciate his tales. Either way, his light conversation was a welcome side effect of his work.  

Twenty minutes later, I slid my feet into my completed sandals for the very first time. Simple, comfortable and crafted of timeless traditions, they left their creator that day. And just like Sophia Loren, I left Capri with a little piece of its skill, its art and its unmistakable style.

Antonio at Work

My Sandals, in Progress

My New Sandals